Monday, November 27, 2006
Thursday, November 23, 2006
Salta, Argentina
http://globaltransmissionmedia.blogspot.com/2006/11/ah-salta.html
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Sucre, Bolivia
Close to Sucre there are some petrified dinosaur footprints and a museum. The footprints were discovered by the cement firm that Carlos worked for and would have been turned into paving if the wall had not had a too-high magnesium content. Happily, the wall (which used to be a floor until some tectonic plate movement changed things around) is now open to visitors and an outdoor museum with models of the dinosaurs has opened in recent years. There are over 300 different types of dinosaur footprint preserved here which have allowed scientists an insight into how the creatures moved. It´s also pretty impressive to see footprints made hundreds of millions of years ago of course.
Monday, November 20, 2006
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
Wednesday, November 15, 2006
Tuesday, November 14, 2006
Isla del Sol, Bolivia
Isla del Sol, birthplace of the sun, the moon and the stars according to the indigenous people of Bolivia and magical island on Lake Titicaca. Here, time stands still as the indigenous people still carry their wares around on their backs or, if they are fortuanate, by donkey. I went to this peaceful place to relax and enjoy the views after the madness of Cusco, Peru.
While I was there the "Day of the Dead" was celebrated with feasting and dancing in the cemetaries. Families unite to pray for their dead relatives and give food to friends in return for prayers for their loved ones. Women who married in the past year carry plastic dolls on their backs and perform a special dance which is supposed to aid their fertility. It is a happy day and the locals were happy to share their customs with the tourists. Traditional costumed are worn, as usual, but new clothes are often worn for the occasion.
On the island I met a group of people who are filming documentaries in South America for a US channel. I would eventually travel to the salt flats with them and into Argentina for around two weeks.
After spending four days staring out at the beautiful blue of Lake Titicaca and watching the ripples of wind on the water I felt compelled to hire a sailing boat for an afternoon and enjoy the silence from a different angle.
Cycling "The Death Road", Bolivia
A few numbers about this road. It's 64km long and almost entirely downhill with a drop of just under 3,500m. We began at an altitude of 4,700m in the freezing fog and ended under glorious sunshine and almost unbearable heat. The first part is paved but a large part is dust track which is frequently just 3 metres wide. The road is essentially single track although there are some passing places, thankfully. Since the vehicle on the outside runs the risk of falling off the side of the road the car with the driver side on the outside goes on that side to better judge the distance. This means that the driver takes the opposite side of the road to normal which adds an extra "will they or won't they remember" aspect which makes it a little more fun.
Cycling the road is a social activity too. The more dangerous parts are manned by human traffic lights, women or children who hold out flags or signs to aid drivers in return for tips. Other indigenous fauna are the wild dogs who live on scraps donated by supersticious drivers who believe that feeding them will somehow aid them safely on their way. All the inhabitants seem slightly bemused by the fact that tourists enjoy their perilous workplace but are friendly nonetheless.
Apart from the frisson caused by proximate danger the scenery is spectacular and there are some wonderful outfits to be worn for the occasion. The agency provided an attractive yellow lycra number for us all which sadly (fortunately?) is covered by my fleece in the photo below. Helmets were given to all although their use must surely only be decorative if a rider does plummet 1,000m off a cliff edge. For the last 20km or so we were equipped with dust masks to cope with the clouds created by lorries and cars which completely block all vision and make breathing inadvisable.
Apart from the occasional physical discomforts (such as the forearm pain that is the result of braking continuously for 3 hours) the experience is wonderful. We rode through and under waterfalls and watched the vegetation change from high altitude brush to lush cloud forest in just a few hours. There is also something hugely satisfying about having cycled 64km and pedaling for only around 10 minutes. Oh and of course I gazed off the edge of spectactular cliffs while heavy goods vehicles rumbled by and managed not to fall off.