Colombia

I started my land travel of Columbia in Cartagena. The city was the main Spanish port for their colonial empire. From there they shipped the gold and other riches that they plundered. The wealth allowed the Spaniards to build some stunning buildings, many of which still stand. Success also attracted pirates and there are fabulous stories of seiges and sackings. The city´s hero is Blas de Lezo the one-armed, one-eyed pirate who defended Cartagena against the Englishman Edward Vernon in a spectacular battle in which his men were hugely out-numbered. He died ruining Vernon´s plans for Prime Ministerial glory but is revered today as the man responsible for Colombia remaining Spanish. There was, however, little time for Cartagena because Manu Chao was to give a free concert in Bogotá a few days later.

Olga, a friend from the boat, and I headed off to the capital. The concert was amazing with thousands of people braving the strange security arrangements which involved removing your shoes and walking 30m barefoot before being searched.

From Bogota I headed South to St Agustin, a place where 5,000 year old statues have been discovered. Nothing is known about the culture that created them beyond the fact that they traded with the Incas and Mayas since items from both cultures have been discovered in the area. The area is magnificent and I would loved to have spent more time there but Cali, city of salsa was calling.

In Cali I fell ill with a fever and became extremely worried because Cédric, a friend with whom I had travelled in Honduras, had fallen prey to malaria. I headed straight to hospital for blood tests, after which of course I immediately began to feel better, and they came back negative as suspected. Following a day of recuperation I headed out to the salsa bars with some other people from the hostel to join in the flailing.

Once again it was time to move on, to the highlands and the coffee growing area. Since the region is so close to the equator it´s not actually cold and there is the most incredible light. On the first evening, just before sunset I witnessed a beautiful rainbow. Apart from great coffee and some of the kindest people I have encountered on my travels, La Zona Cafetera boasts extraordinary cloud forests replete with palm trees and hummingbirds.

I visited the area on horseback (although it could be argued that my mount was actually a donkey) and met a friendly Colombian couple from Cali who showed me the sights. the ride took us across rivers and up and down mountains teeming with life. Once again I had to say goodbye to new friends and head back to Bogota as my flight to Lima would leave the following day.